“Good for What Ails You”
Bokhara, Uzbekistan 2012
A common sight in the markets of Uzbekistan is the incense purveyor. It could be a man or a woman, young or old, but always a gypsy. It is they who know how to make potent incense, an incense to keep the evil eye from its evil intentions. (My interpretation)
The gypsy usually carried what looked like a smoking frying pan and would brandish it in all directions, letting clouds of smoke float over vendors and vegetables alike. It was easy to think that the incense had a medicinal power perhaps killing any germs on the produce or on the producer. Sometimes the vendor would take the pan and waft the smoke to where ever she or he thought it needed to go, even holding it under a voluminous skirt. After being decontaminated, the vendor would give the gypsy money or food from their stall.
The girl in the photo was the youngest incense person I saw in Uzbekistan. I asked her to put the smoking can near her face for a portrait. The smoke caused the girl’s eyes to water and set off a spell of coughing. Oh! So sorry!
The girl hesitantly spoke some English words, telling me that she was teaching herself to speak the language. Her dark intelligent eyes revealed her shyness, but she had squelched her shyness to practice her few words. I think she will succeed.
The Smile of Victory
This smiling woman was a butcher among many butchers in the huge meat market of Bokhara. Torie and I were taking portraits of everyone who caught our fancy. Sometimes we were caught by their fancy and were called to come over to chat or to take the caller’s portrait. This woman had a trick up her sleeve. She held out her hand for a handshake but when she had my hand in hers, she gave a mighty squeeze. She had me in a vise-like grip, and though I tried to squeeze back, she was stronger. She slams sheep carcasses around all day long and she has the strength to prove it.
I recommend Penelope of www.uzbekjourneys to help you with your queries about Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.