The Secret
Mali, West Africa 2004
Their tent, made of white strips of cotton woven by the Dogon tribe, was the only evidence of human beings we had seen for miles and miles. There were about six or seven women, ranging from late teens to middle-aged. The men, sitting outside on the sand, were boys and a grandfatherly looking man.
Normally Touareg women do not veil, but women and men of any tribe might cover their face when they see a camera. It’s more a way of keeping their distance and privacy than anything else for these people. They’ve probably never seen a photograph in their life.
The women were reserved. No gesture of hospitality came forth. I entered their tent hesitantly and when they did not object, I got up close for my shot with only their eyes showing. I’m not always bold, but I could sense that they were curious about what I would do.
Portrait of a Touareg
Taodenni, (500 km north of Tombouctou) Mali 2005
Caravan leaders sat near one of the salt huts sipping tea and chatting. Most likely, talk concerned the route and the condition of wells along the way. Crossing the desert is dangerous and caravan leaders try to depart with other caravans. There is safety in numbers. They make the journey to Taodenni once a year and the feeling of anxiety about being alone in the vast Sahara never leaves them. Even our leader, Albert Nicheli, with his GPS, maps and an expert Touareg guide, spent hours poring over the route. He’d be hunched over his maps late into the night.
For your trip to West Africa: www.transafrica.biz