Kasbah Ruins
Ouarzazate, Morocco 2009
A kasbah is a something like a fortified apartment house. It is a rabbit warren of rooms and apartments connected by dark hallways. The only light is from shafts of harsh sun where the structure is open to the sky. If you visit a kasbah at high noon, you will get some dramatic photos.
I’ve visited many kasbahs sometimes without seeing a soul. Moroccans, particularly country people, do not want to have their photo taken. Men don’t even want you to photograph things they own, such as their wife. Old women are convinced that you are up to no good and remonstrate with younger women who just might want to be photographed.
Once I met a youngish woman who gestured to me to follow her. I did. She sped along the dark hallways. The floor is mud: made uneven by the feet of goats and donkeys. There is a gutter in the middle for waste water. I did my best to follow her, hoping I wouldn’t make a misstep and fall. We arrived at a heavy wooden door studded with nails. Once inside she disappeared after gesturing to me to sit in a small room occupied by an elderly man. He seemed ill, but he welcomed me (somehow) and I began to talk as if he could understand English. Of course, I accompany my speech with a sort of semi-mime: big smiles, hand over heart, nods, that sort of thing. It works!
After a few minutes, the young woman returned with a plate of home-baked cookies and the makings for tea. She had changed into a fresh blouse and skirt. It was obvious that I was considered an honored guest. I sat with them for about 30 minutes. I think she had brought me there to entertain her husband. He was the elderly man who was too ill to leave the home. After I left, they would have gossip for a week!
I know I shouldn’t be, but often I am astounded to see that a person who lives in a mud castle/house/hut has gracious manners. I have been treated like a queen by humble people all over the world, people who get their family photo album to entertain me, who make tea for me even if they have to stop their work, people who give me the best piece of meat and don’t take any for themselves.
I don’t take their hospitality for granted. I always give them a gift of cash through my guide. If I have to do the giving, I say it is for the children and they will not refuse to take it then.