H’Mong Portrait – Retro
Northern Thailand 2007
I took the elevator, or was it an escalator, to the temple at the top of the hill. It was beautiful in that golden, intricate Asian style. It wasn’t just one building, it was a honeycomb of buildings with sharply sloping roofs outlined with gold carvings. There were almost as many gold Buddhas as there were people and in front of each Buddha were smoking joss sticks, flickering flames of ‘butter’ lamps (now fueled by fossil fuel but just as pleasing to the deities as the old way) and bouquets of pale fuchsia colored lotus blossoms. Little girls in costume danced, prayerful old people held out their hands in supplication, and orange robed monks listened to the concerns of the faithful.
Photographing should have been a piece of cake, you say! You might say that, but I’m afraid I couldn’t possibly agree. Walking with a guide is problem # 1. I’m trying to listen as history and cultural facts are enumerated. It’s an ancient country and there is no end to the information my well-informed guide can tell me. I want to appreciate it, but I can’t. I’m looking for a viewpoint. I can’t find one. Nothing stands out, no person, no statue, no temple. I take photos despite this. I take photos so my guide will think that I appreciate the wonders of her country’s history. I can hardly wait until we have finished our tour. We descend the Naga stairs and sit to eat a snack the guide recommends. It is a sausage. It is delicious. We chat as if we are old friends.
Then I see the little girl holding her brother.