Bolo Hauz Mosque

Bokhara, Uzbekistan 2012

Twenty columns support the portico of the Bolo Hauz Mosque. The height of the portico is such that two long and straight poplar trees were needed for each column. The capitals are carved into  stalactite hollows and painted in bright colors that have muted and softened over the century since the mosque was built. 

Torie and I went to the mosque on the day of Eid Kbir. We planned to post ourselves in a good position and photograph the worshipers as they entered and exited the mosque. We arrived about thirty minutes early to find our vantage point.  We chatted with the man who took care of the shoes that are slipped off before entering the mosque. He observed our keen interest in photography and told us that he had some photos at home from the days before the Russians occupied his country. Of course, we said we wanted to see them. They turned out to be photocopies of old photos, but they were interesting nonetheless and we passed the time examining them.

All the while we kept watch for the men whom we thought would be coming to the mosque in droves. We waited for someone, anyone but no one came. We crossed over to a tea-house where we purposely sat near two elderly men dressed in boots, tubeteka (skullcap) and chapan (quilted coat). Our plan was to follow them when they went to pray.

They didn’t seem to be in any rush although it was nearing three o’clock when services were to begin. We asked them if they were going to pray. “Oh, yes,” they replied. They put down their teacups and held their hands in supplication and quietly murmured a prayer. That finished, they packed the remainder of their food into a plastic bag and bid us goodbye. They walked past the mosque: two small men holding hands.

Bolo Hauz Mosque with Minaret

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