The Master Woodblock Printer at Work
Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan 2012
A skilled woodblock artisan demonstrates the proper stamping technique. His woodblocks are laid out in the foreground along with bottles containing the ingredients for dye. He wears a silk and cotton chapan (a quilted coat) and a tubeteka (the traditional Uzbek skullcap) just for this portrait. If we’d arrived here fifty years earlier, he’d have worn these same clothes as his daily dress.
Torie and I bought a chapan…well, Torie bought several, both here at the silk shop and also at Urgut market where she turned the place upside down looking for the perfect silk chapan with a lining of old Russian cotton. I learned a lot from Torie!!
Antique Suzanis at Urgut Market
The photo of the woodblock printer was easy as he was in open shade and wore the perfect clothing, thanks to our guide, Anvar. I only had to find a good viewpoint that told the story. His tools provided the perfect foreground. We can see his work as well: the black ink designs on the silk and cotton fabric called Adras.
The ladies in Urgut were another story. Markets can be difficult places to shoot although if you mention a market to a photographer, he’s there! No matter how horrible all the other markets have been for photos, there is always the hope of coming upon the perfect shot in such a busy place.
The suzani market took place in a sandy, rocky field behind the regular market. Lines of tables draped with suzanis, piles of suzanis heaped on tarps, or suzanis draped over cars, milling women and men. Where was the focal point?
At Urgut Market
Torie loved the red car draped with suzanis. She shot it straight on. Her shot had more punch than mine does. Hers makes a graphic statement. I tried to establish foreground as I did with the woodblock printer at the top, but the foreground here doesn’t add much. Or at least I didn’t think so after I saw Torie’s photo. Note to self: Try every angle.
To learn more about the arts of Uzbekistan: www.uzbekjourneys has a great blog. Penelope explores and explains the rich heritage of Central Asia.
Don’t know what a “suzani” market is. The colors of the man’s chapan are beautiful. Next trip I’m traveling with Torie as she knows all.
Hi, Jerry.
That’s funny! Thanks for the laugh…there aren’t that many laughs these days.
I didn’t know what a suzani was either until Torie told me…it’s Uzbek embroidery. They give them to brides and decorate their homes with them.
Best, Rosemary
Rosemary, loved your page – we are working on a new Blog on textiles and experiences! and we are placing a link of this article – if any concerns let me know.
Hello, Olga.
Thanks for the link and for your comment. I appreciate it. I read your blog…the description of your day shopping in Bombay. I want to go!!
Best of Luck with your endeavors.
Rosemary